Perona Farms was a dream come true that went slightly "off the
wall" as far as Emil Perona was concerned. His career began
in the kitchen of a London hotel at the age of 14, progressed to
vaudeville stages all over the world, and culminated - perhaps -
in the purchase of a 260 acre dairy farm in Andover Township, where
he hoped to lead the quiet life of a dairy farmer.
But Emil's finances couldn't keep up with the appetites of his
eleven cows. It soon became apparent that, if he was to keep the
house and property, some other means of income would have to be
found, so the answer to the mounting feed bills was to take in
boarders.
Emil's brother, John, owned a restaurant in Manhattan (the famous
El Morocco) and helped by sending people to the country for some
rest and relaxation. Emil's own contacts through the theatrical
world kept the place full, and boarders enjoyed the scenic country
atmosphere and "Mother Perona's" (Emil's wife, as she
came to be known) wonderful home cooking.
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The clientele of Perona Farms grew with its fame, and
the numbers who came to spend weekends and vacations, or just to
partake of its culinary specialties, soon outgrew the old farmhouse.
Thus Perona Farms, the restaurant, came into being, and the original
house was used only for living quarters for the family and their
guests.
Some famous people became boarders at Perona's. Among them was
Jack Renault, the Canadian boxing champion, who persuaded
Emil to build a gymnasium and start a training
camp. Thus the era of prizefighters at Perona Farms began and Luis
Firpo, Bruce "Tiger" Flowers,
and Mike McTigue were seen training. Joe DiMaggio
and Lou Little were other prominent figures in the sports world
who also found
a haven of quiet rest at Perona Farms.
Emil Perona may have left show business behind him
when he turned to his Sussex County farm, but the friends
he had made there helped to spread his fame as an innkeeper,
and many were
stage personalities who shared his hospitality. A listing
of these prominent figures could go on indefinitely,
but among the most famous
visitors have been Jimmy Durante, Ethel Merman, Groucho
Marx, Betsy Von Furstenberg, Dorothy Lamour, Helen
Hayes, Burgess Meredith,
Eva Gabor, Barbara BelGeddes, Cesar Romero, John Carradine,
and Henry Morgan. The spectacular figure of the late
Errol Flynn was
also seen at Perona Farms, as was the famed band leader,
Artie Shaw.
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Local people flocked to Perona Farms, too. Emil
and "Mother" Perona's
daughter, Aida, helped as waitress and dishwasher, starting the family
tradition of "everyone helps". Maurice DeBergh, a young
man who came to the farm as a guest, filled in and
helped, too. Soon, he also became part of the restaurant family --
he married Aida in
1932.
The Debergh's daughter, Maureen, and her husband, Victor Avondoglio,
have continued the family traditions of excellence, creating an
atmosphere where fine food and service has been their constant
endeavor. Victor and Maureen expanded the restaurant in 1965 and
again in 1974. Sons Mark, Wade, and Kirk, along with daughter Tracey,
comprise the fourth generation of hard workers and manage a staff
of 100 employees.
Although the restaurant now resembles a Southern European Hacienda,
the name "farms" remains, reminiscent of the days when
Emil's dairy farm, the old farmhouse full of boarders, and the
gymnasium were everyday life at Perona Farms. The grounds are still
spacious and meticulously landscaped, and guests still enjoy the
stroll across Emil's bridge to the little island on the lake.
Perona Farms started in 1917 around the boardinghouse table. The
food was good, the conversation lively, and the hosts hospitable.
Nothing has changed except the size of the restaurant -- family
traditions remain.
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